珠穆朗玛峰的资料

珠穆朗玛峰的资料

珠穆朗玛峰位于西藏自治区定日县，在我国西藏与尼泊尔的交界处，为世界最高山系喜玛拉雅山的主峰，海拔8848．13米，是世界第一高峰。

在藏语中，“珠穆”的意思为女神，“朗玛”为第三，珠穆朗玛峰也就是当地人民所亲切称呼的“第三女神之峰”。相传很久以前，珠峰附近还是一片无边的大海，珠峰脚下花草茂密、蜂蝶成群。一天，突然来了一个五头恶魔，想要霸占这片美丽的地方，它把大海搅得恶浪翻滚，毁坏森林，摧残花木。一时间，一个富饶肥沃的地方，变得乌烟瘴气，满目疮痍。正当鸟兽走投无路、坐以待毙时，从东方漂来一朵五彩祥云，变成五部慧空行母，施展无边法力，降伏了五头恶魔。从此，大海变得风平浪静，生活在这里的众生都万分感激地对仙女顶礼膜拜，众空行母本想功成后返回天庭，无奈众生苦苦哀求，乞望她们能永远留下，降福人间，和众生共享太平。众女神终于同意，她们喝令大海退去，使东边变得森林茂密，西边出现良田万顷，南边草肥林茂，北边牧场无限。五位仙女也变成喜玛拉雅山脉的五大高峰，驻扎于人间大地，其中排行第三的仙女长得最高、最俊俏，她就是珠穆朗玛峰。

旗云是珠穆朗玛峰的特殊景观。顾名思义，旗云的形状宛如一面旗帜，漂浮在珠穆朗玛峰的顶端，有“世界上最高的风向标”之称。它反映了高空气流的运动。有经验的气象工作者和登山运动员可以把旗云形态的变化，作为登山天气预报的参数。旗云的形成和珠峰的特殊高度及特定的自然地理环境有关。旗云并非整天都能见到，在日出后产生，中午前后最明显，下午三四点以后，由于空气对流加强，云层迅速发展，山顶被其它云遮蔽就见不到旗云了。

珠峰呈金字塔型，根据科学推算，峰顶的最低温度为－56摄氏度，这比中国最冷的地方——黑龙江漠河地区的气温还要低。山上常年积雪不化，冰川、冰坡、冰塔林随处可见。山顶空气稀薄，常有七、八级大风，十二级风也很常见。

这个地区是我国大陆性冰川的活动中心，根据资料介绍，属于中国境内的冰川有217条，面积七百多平方公里，其中有几条冰川长达20公里以上，最长的绒布冰川有22公里。

珠峰地区悬冰川最多，其规模较小，面积一般不超过一平方公里，冰的厚度为一二十米。顾名思义，这种冰川的特点是冰川的末端悬挂在陡坡上。远远望去，成排的悬冰川就象一块块白色的盾牌挂在陡峭的山坡上。悬冰川一般是在古冰川残留地形上发育起来的。古冰川时，支流冰川向主流冰川汇集，由于主、支流冰层厚度、运行速度、冰蚀能力的差异，冰川主谷被强烈下切，支谷不得不悬于山腰上。现在，由于冰川规模缩小，冰川主流得不到足够得供给而退缩或消失，支流冰川仅能依贴于陡坡上，并时常因下端崩落而发生冰崩。

这里还有规模较大的冰川——冰斗冰川，它们分布在山顶附近或分水岭两侧。在风化作用和冰蚀作用下，山地被切割，山岭被削成斗状的山坳，象把巨大的座椅，冰川就发育在座椅中。冰斗冰川的形状近于卵圆形，有的近似于三角形，冰川表面凹进，向冰川出口处缓缓倾斜，有些冰斗冰川向山谷推进，呈条带状伸展，成为山谷冰川。在冰川集中的地方，往往是几条山谷冰川相连，象条条玉龙盘绕于山间。

珠峰地区纬度低，太阳辐射强，冰川表面的小气候差异，造成冰面差别消融，形成许多奇丽的景色。冰蘑菇，是大石块被细细的冰柱所支撑，有的可高达5米。冰桥象条晶莹的纽带，连接着两个陡坎，象是有意为两个陡坎“保媒搭线”。冰墙陡峭直立，象座巨大的屏风，让人生畏。冰芽、冰针则作为奇异美景的点缀，处处可见。最令人称奇的还要数那千资百态的冰塔林了。在海拔5700米到6300米的地段，是“水晶宝塔”——冰塔林的世界。珠峰北坡绒布冰川上，发育有5．5公里长的冰塔林带。乳白色的冰塔拔地而起，一座接一座，高达数十米。有的象威严的金字塔；有的象肃穆的古刹钟楼；有的象锋利的宝剑，直刺云天；有的象温顺的长颈鹿在安详漫步，个个晶莹夺目。难怪人们都说，进了冰塔林，就把如同自己置身于上苍的仙境中了。

喜玛拉雅山连绵的高峰挡住了从印度洋上吹来的暖湿气流，故而北坡气候干燥，植被稀疏。但在山中，却也是生机勃勃。这里的牦牛，身躯魁梧，体力极强；野驴为世界上的珍稀动物；岩羊和高原鼠经常出没；人迹罕至的冰川，雪鸡成群结队。这些生活在海拔6000米高的冰原上的生命告诉人们，生命是十分顽强的。

根据中国科学探险队1992年赴珠峰考察的结果，珠峰水环境污染状况不容忽视。例如，俗称砒霜的重要成分砷（As），一般多存在于火山灰硫磺或煤燃烧产物中，1975年为1．33微克每升，可到1992年已达14．9微克每升，上升了10倍多。1992年珠峰北坡绒布河水中汞含量为0．15微克每升，国家环保局公布的长江和黄河中为小于0．2微克每升，然而1990年12月珠江水却低于0．1微克每升。

关于珠穆朗玛峰的资料

珠穆朗玛峰

喜马拉雅山脉主峰。 位于中华人民共和国 西藏 和 尼泊尔/url]交界处。山体呈巨型金字塔状，由结晶岩系构成。海拔8848.13米（最新海拔数据8844.43米），并以3.7厘米/年的速度增高。为世界第一高峰，有世界屋脊之称。珠穆朗玛藏语意为女神第三。清康熙五十六年(1717)《皇舆全览图》上作朱母郎马阿林。1855年 印度测量局在英国人主持下，将该局局长S.G.额菲尔士的姓氏命名此峰。1952年中华人民共和国政府将此峰正名为珠穆朗玛峰。尼泊尔称萨迦-玛塔。1960年5月25日，中华人民共和国登山队首次从北坡攀登峰顶。中华人民共和国科学院也曾多次组织大规模综合科学考察，获得了大量的重要科学资料。1989年3月，珠穆朗玛峰国家自然保护区宣告成立。保护区面积3.38万平方千米。区内珍稀、濒危生物物种极为丰富，其中有8种国家一类保护动物，如长尾灰叶猴、熊猴、喜马拉雅塔尔羊、金钱豹等。峰顶共有600多条冰川，面积1600平方千米，最长的26千米，每当旭日东升，巨大的山峰在红光照耀下，绚丽多彩。此外，还常出现许多奇特的自然景观，吸引了大量国内外游客。

珠穆朗玛峰是喜玛拉雅山脉的主峰，海拔8844.43米(2005年10月9日发布数据），是地球上第一高峰，位于东经 86.9°,北纬27.9°。地处中尼边界东段，北坡在中华人民共和国西藏的定曰县境内，南坡在尼泊尔王国境内，藏语称 “珠穆朗玛”[清康熙五十六年（公元 1717年）编绘的《皇舆全览图》中作“朱母朗马阿林”]，意为“神女第三”。

珠穆朗玛峰山体呈巨型金字塔状，威武雄壮昂首天外，地形极端险峻，环境异常复杂。雪线高度：北坡为5800—6200米，南坡为5500—6100米。东北山脊、 东南山脊和西山山脊中间夹着三大陡壁（北壁、东壁和西南壁），在这些山脊 和峭壁之间又分布着548条大陆型冰川，总面积达1457.07平方公里，平均厚度达7260米。冰川的补给主要靠印度洋季风带两大降水带积雪变质形成。冰川上 有千姿百态、瑰丽罕见的冰塔林，又有高达数十米的冰陡崖和步步陷井的明暗 冰裂隙，还有险象环生的冰崩雪崩区。

珠峰不仅巍峨宏大，而且气势磅礴。在它周围20公里的范围内，群峰林立，山峦叠障。仅海拔7000米以上的高峰就有40多座，较著名的有南面3公里处的“洛子峰”（海拔8463米，世界第四高峰）和海拔7589米的卓穷峰，东南面是马卡鲁峰（海拔8463米，世界第五高峰） ，北面3公里是海拔7543米的章子峰 ，西面是努子峰（7855米）和普莫里峰（7145米）。在这些巨峰的外围 ，还有一些世界一流的高峰遥遥相望：东南方向有世界第三高峰干城嘉峰（海拔8585米，尼泊尔和锡金的界峰）；西面有海拔7998米的格重康峰、8201米的卓奥友峰和 8012米的希夏邦马峰。形成了群峰来朝，峰头汹涌的波澜壮阔的场面。

气候：

珠峰地区及其附近高峰的气候复杂多变，即使在一天之内，也往往变化莫测， 更不用说在一年四季之内的翻云覆雨。大体来说，每年6月初至9月中旬为雨季， 强烈的东南季风造成暴雨频繁，云雾弥漫，冰雪肆虐无常的恶劣气候。11月中旬 翌年2月中旬，因受强劲的西北寒流控制，气温可达-60°C，平均气温在-40°C至 50°C之间。最大风速可达90/米。每年3月初至5月末，这里是风季过度至雨季的 春季，而9月初至10月末是雨季过度至风季的秋季。在此期间，有可能出现较好的天气，是登山的最佳季节。

山峰概况 珠穆朗玛峰是喜玛拉雅山脉的主峰，海拔8844.43米(2005年10月9日发布数据），是地球上第一高峰，位于东经 86.9°,北纬27.9°。地处中尼边界东段，北坡在中华人民共和国西藏的定曰县境内，南坡在尼泊尔王国境内，藏语称 “珠穆朗玛”[清康熙五十六年（公元 1717年）编绘的《皇舆全览图》中作“朱母朗马阿林”，意为“神女第三”。

珠穆朗玛峰山体呈巨型金字塔状，威武雄壮昂首天外，地形极端险峻，环境异常复杂。雪线高度：北坡为5800—6200米，南坡为5500—6100米。东北山脊、 东南山脊和西山山脊中间夹着三大陡壁（北壁、东壁和西南壁），在这些山脊 和峭壁之间又分布着548条大陆型冰川，总面积达1457.07平方公里，平均厚度达7260米。冰川的补给主要靠印度洋季风带两大降水带积雪变质形成。冰川上 有千姿百态、瑰丽罕见的冰塔林，又有高达数十米的冰陡崖和步步陷井的明暗 冰裂隙，还有险象环生的冰崩雪崩区。

珠峰不仅巍峨宏大，而且气势磅礴。在它周围20公里的范围内，群峰林立，山峦叠障。仅海拔7000米以上的高峰就有40多座，较著名的有南面3公里处的“洛子峰”（海拔8463米，世界第四高峰）和海拔7589米的卓穷峰，东南面是马卡鲁峰（海拔8463米，世界第五高峰），北面3公里是海拔7543米的章子峰，西面是努子峰（7855米）和普莫里峰（7145米）。在这些巨峰的外围，还有一些世界一流的高峰遥遥相望：东南方向有世界第三高峰干城嘉峰（海拔8585米，尼泊尔和锡金的界峰）；西面有海拔7998米的格重康峰、8201米的卓奥友峰和 8012米的希夏邦马峰。形成了群峰来朝，峰头汹涌的波澜壮阔的场面。

路线

攀登示意图

早在19世纪初叶，珠峰就成为世界登山家和科学家所向往的地方。然而直到 1953年，才由英国人埃德蒙.希拉里、丹增创下首登成功的纪录。到1998年底， 全世界有1054人享有登临世界巅峰的殊誉。他们通过自己的努力，发现和开创了11条登山路线，这些路线是：

东南山脊路线：1952年由瑞士登山队发现，可惜功亏一篑，第2年才由英 国队沿此线登顶成功。

东北山脊路线：1960年由中华人民共和国队开创并成功地登顶。

西北脊转北壁路线：1963年由美国队开创并取得了成功。

西南壁路线：1975年由英国博宁队首创并登上顶峰。

西北脊路线：1979年由前南斯拉夫队发现并由此登上顶极。

北壁直上路线：1980年由曰本队首创并登上顶峰。

南面柱状山脊路线：1980年波兰队开辟并登上顶峰。

东北山脊转北壁路线：1980年意大利人梅斯纳尔独身一人首创并取得成功。

西南壁转西北脊路线：1982年由前苏联队开创，并沿此线登上顶峰。

东壁转东南山脊路线：1983年由美国旧金山湾区队首创并取得成功。

东壁路线：1988年由美国一新西兰国际探险开创并由此登顶。

同年，中、曰、尼三国联合登山队还创下从南、北两坡双跨并会师顶峰 的壮举。人类攀登珠峰的英雄奇迹正不断涌现

交通：

从中华人民共和国境内进山的路线是：从拉萨乘车沿中尼公路经江孜、曰喀则至协格尔， 总计670公里，行程两天，然后再经帕卓区沿简易公路南下，行车110公里后就 到珠峰北麓，海拔5145米的绒布冰川末端---绒布寺。

珠穆朗玛峰(Jo-mo glang-ma)，简称珠峰，又意译作圣母峰，位于中华人民共和国和尼泊尔交界的喜马拉雅山脉之上，终年积雪。是亚洲和世界第一高峰。藏语“珠穆朗玛jo-mo glang-ma ri”就是“大地之母”的意思。藏语Jo-mo“珠穆”是女神的之意，glang-ma“朗玛”应该理解成母象（在藏语里，glang-ma有两中意思：高山柳和母象）。神话说珠穆朗玛峰是长寿五天女（tshe-ring mched lnga）所居住的宫室。 西方普遍称这山峰作额菲尔士峰或艾佛勒斯峰(Mount Everest)，是纪念英国人占领尼泊尔之时，负责测量喜马拉雅山脉的印度测量局局长乔治·额菲尔士(George Everest)。珠穆朗玛峰最近的一次测量在1999年，是由美国国家地理学会使用全球卫星定位系统测定的，他们认为珠峰的海拔高度应该为8850米。现在中华人民共和国公认的珠穆朗玛峰的海拔高度由中华人民共和国登山队于1975年测定，是8848.13米。但外界也有8848米、8840米、8850米、8882米等多种说法。最近，2005年5月22日中华人民共和国重测珠峰高度测量登山队成功登上珠穆朗玛峰峰顶，再次精确测量珠峰高度，珠峰新高度预计今年10月公布。 有趣的是，珠穆朗玛峰虽然是世界第一高峰，但是它的峰顶却不是距离地心最远的一点。这个特殊的点属于南美洲的钦博拉索山。珠穆朗玛峰高大巍峨的形象一直在当地甚至全世界的范围内产生着影响。第四版人民币十元的背面图案就是珠穆朗玛峰。 1921年——第一支英国登山队在查尔斯·霍华德·伯里中校的率领下开始攀登珠穆朗玛峰，到达海拔7000米处。 1922年——第二支英国登山队是用供氧装置到达海拔8320米处。 1924年——第三支英国登山队攀登珠穆朗玛峰时，乔治·马洛里和安德鲁·欧文在使用供氧装置登顶过程中失踪。马洛里的遗体于1999年在海拔8150米处被发现，而他随身携带的照相机失踪，故无法确定他和欧文是否是登顶成功的世界第一人。 1953年5月29日——34岁来自新西兰的登山家埃德蒙·希拉里 en:Edmund Hillary作为英国登山队队员与39岁的尼泊尔向导丹增·诺尔盖 en:Tenzing Norgay 一起沿东南山脊路线登上珠穆朗玛峰，是纪录上第一个登顶成功的登山队伍。 1956年——以阿伯特·艾格勒为首的瑞士登山队在人类历史上第二次登上珠穆朗玛峰。（有准确记录以来） 1960年5月25日——中华人民共和国人首次登上珠穆朗玛峰。他们是王富洲、贡布、屈银华。此次攀登，也是首次从北坡攀登成功。 1963年——以诺曼·迪伦弗斯为首的美国探险队首次从西坡登顶成功。 1975年——日本人田部井淳子成为世界上首位从南坡登上珠穆朗玛峰的女性。 是年，中华人民共和国登山队第二次攀登珠峰，9名队员登顶。其中藏族队员潘多成为世界上第一位从北坡登顶成功的女性。 1978年——奥地利人彼得·哈贝尔和意大利人赖因霍尔德·梅斯纳首次未带氧气瓶登顶成功。 1980年——波兰登山家克日什托夫·维里克斯基第一次在冬天攀登珠穆朗玛峰成功。 1988年——中华人民共和国、日本、尼泊尔三国联合登山队首次从南北两侧双跨珠穆朗玛峰成功。 1996年——包括著名登山家罗布·哈尔在内的15名登山者在登顶过程中牺牲，是历史上攀登珠穆朗玛峰牺牲人数最多的一年。 1998年——美国人汤姆·惠特克成为世界上第一个攀登珠穆朗玛峰成功登顶的残疾人。 2000年——尼泊尔著名登山家巴布·奇里从大本营出发由北坡攀登，耗时16小时56分登顶成功，创造了登顶的最快纪录。 2001年——美国人维亨迈尔成为世界上首个登上珠穆朗玛峰的盲人。 2005年——中华人民共和国第四次珠峰地区综合科考高度测量登山队成功攀登珠峰并测量珠峰高度数据。2005年10月9日，国家测绘局宣布，珠穆朗玛峰新高度为8844.43米。

参考资料：http://baike.baidu.com/lemma-php/dispose/view.php/2322.htm

珠穆朗玛峰的资料 简单

珠穆朗玛峰(Qomolangma)，简称珠峰，又意译作圣母峰，尼泊尔称为萨加马塔峰，也叫“埃非勒斯峰”（Everest），位于中华人民共和国和尼泊尔交界的喜马拉雅山脉之上，终年积雪。高度8844.43米，为世界第一高峰，中国最美的、令人震撼的十大名山之一。

珠穆朗玛峰较近的一次测量在1999年，是由美国国家地理学会使用全球卫星定位系统测定的，他们 珠峰峰顶附近地形图

认为珠峰的海拔高度应该为8850米。而世界各国曾经公认的珠穆朗玛峰的海拔高度由中华人民共和国登山队于1975年测定，是8848.13米。但外界也有8848米、8840米、8850米、8882米等多种说法。最近，2005年5月22日中华人民共和国重测珠峰高度测量登山队成功登上珠穆朗玛峰峰 珠峰卫星图

顶，再次精确测量珠峰高度，珠峰新高度为8844.43米（从左图看出峰顶位于中国境内）。同时停用1975年8848.13米的数据。 随着时间的推移，珠穆朗玛峰的高度还会因为地理板块的运动，而不断变化。有趣的是，珠穆朗玛峰虽然是世界第一高峰，但是它的峰顶却不是距离地心最远的一点。这个特殊的点属于南美洲的钦博拉索山。(已知太阳系最高峰是海拔27000米的火星奥林匹斯山)。珠穆朗玛峰高大巍峨的形象，一直在当地以及全世界的范围内产生着巨大的影响。 经纬度：27°59′17〃 N ；86°55′31〃 E 首次登顶时间：1953年5月29日 艾德蒙·希拉里与丹增·诺盖

中国第一次登上珠穆朗玛峰的时间

中国第一次登上珠峰时间为1960年5月25日4时20分，中国登山队王富州、贡布、屈银华三人首次从北坡登上珠穆朗玛峰顶，鲜艳的五星红旗飘扬在地球最高处。

中国登山队于1955年正式成立，分别于1960年和1975年两次从中国境内一侧登上世界最高峰——珠穆朗玛峰，开创了人类从北侧成功登顶珠穆朗玛峰的纪录。2008年，中国登山队更是完成了一项伟大壮举，奥运火炬第一次登上了珠穆朗玛峰峰顶。

珠穆朗玛峰是喜马拉雅山脉的主峰，同时是世界海拔最高的山峰，它位于中国与尼泊尔边境线上，北部在中国西藏定日县境内，南部在尼泊尔境内，顶峰位于中国境内，是世界最高峰，也是中国跨越四个县的珠穆朗玛峰自然保护区和尼泊尔国家公园的中心所在。

扩展资料：

珠穆朗玛峰的两种高度

珠穆朗玛峰有两种高度：登山者登上的是总体高度，尼泊尔等国采用的雪盖高（总高）是8848米（29029英尺），2005年中国国家测绘局测量的岩面高（裸高即地质高度）为8844.43米，2010年起承认两种高度的测量数据。除了是海拔最高的山峰之外，它也是距离地心最远的山峰之一。

珠穆朗玛峰较近的一次测量在1999年，是由美国国家地理学会使用GPS全球卫星定位系统测定的，他们认为珠峰的海拔高度应该为8850米。而世界各国曾经公认的珠穆朗玛峰的海拔高度由中华人民共和国登山队于1975年测定，是海拔8848.13米。

但外界也有8848米、8840米、8850米、8882米等多种说法。2005年5月22日中国精确测量珠峰高度，珠峰的岩面高为8844.43米，而峰顶位于中国，同时停用1975年8848.13米的数据。

两种高度各有意义——总高（雪盖高）异于裸高（岩面高）：登山者登上的是总体高度，裸高是地质高度。

参考资料来源：百度百科-珠穆朗玛峰

百度百科-中国登山队

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珠穆朗玛峰的英文资料

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest

把资料抄袭过来了。建议你去网页看

Mount Everest or Sagarmatha(सगरमाथा) or Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ) pronounced as (Jongmalunga) is the highest mountain on Earth, as measured by the height of its summit above sea level. The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and China.

Contents

[hide]

* 1 Naming

* 2 Measurement

* 3 Climbing routes

o 3.1 Southeast ridge

o 3.2 Northeast ridge

* 4 Ascents

o 4.1 Early expeditions

o 4.2 First successful ascent by Tenzing and Hillary

o 4.3 1996 disaster

o 4.4 2003 - 50th Anniversary of First Ascent

o 4.5 2005 - Helicopter landing

o 4.6 2006 - North Face ski descent

o 4.7 2006 - David Sharp controversy

o 4.8 Facts

* 5 Death zone

* 6 Bottled oxygen controversy

* 7 Life-threatening thefts

* 8 Life forms

* 9 See also

* 10 Image gallery

* 11 External links

* 12 References

Naming

The ancient Sanskrit names for the mountain are Devgiri (Sanskrit for "Holy Mountain") and Devadurga (the English pronounced it deodungha in the 1800s).[1]. In Nepali it is known as सगरमाथा, meaning "Head of the Sky". The Tibetan name is Chomolungma or Qomolangma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ, meaning "Mother of the Universe"), and the related Chinese name is Zhūmùlǎngmǎ Fēng (珠穆朗玛峰) or Shèngmǔ Fēng (圣母峰).

In 1865, the mountain was given its English name by Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India. With both Nepal and Tibet closed to foreign travel, he wrote:

"I was taught by my respected chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest to assign to every geographical object its true local or native appellation. But here is a mountain, most probably the highest in the world, without any local name that we can discover, whose native appellation, if it has any, will not very likely be ascertained before we are allowed to penetrate into Nepal. In the meantime the privilege as well as the duty devolves on me to assign…a name whereby it may be known among citizens and geographers and become a household word among civilized nations."

Waugh chose to name the mountain after George Everest, first using the spelling Mont Everest, and then Mount Everest. However, the modern pronunciation of Everest (IPA: [ˈɛvərɪst] or [ˈɛvərɨst] [EV-er-est]) is in fact different from Sir George's own pronunciation of his surname, which was [ˈiv;rɪst] (EAVE-rest).

In the early 1960s, the Nepalese government realized that Mount Everest had no Nepalese name. This was because the mountain was not known and named in ethnic Nepal (that is, the Kathmandu valley and surrounding areas). The government set out to find a name for the mountain (the Sherpa/Tibetan name Chomolangma was not acceptable, as it would have been against the idea of unification (Nepalization) of the country. The name Sagarmatha (सगरमाथा) was thus invented by Baburam Acharya.

In 2002, the Chinese People's Daily newspaper published an article making a case against the continued use of the English name for the mountain in the Western world, insisting that it should be referred to by its Tibetan name. The newspaper argued that the Chinese name preceded the English one, as Mount Qomolangma was marked on a Chinese map more than 280 years ago.[4]

Measurement

Aerial view of Mount Everest.

Aerial view of Mount Everest.

Another aerial view of Mount Everest.

Another aerial view of Mount Everest.

Radhanath Sikdar, an Indian mathematician and surveyor from Bengal, was the first to identify Everest as the world's highest peak in 1852, using trigonometric calculations based on measurements of "Peak XV" (as it was then known) made with theodolites from 240 km (150 miles) away in India. Measurement could not be made from closer due to a lack of access to Nepal. "Peak XV" was found to be exactly 29,000 feet (8,839 m) high, but was publicly declared to be 29,002 feet (8,840 m). The arbitrary addition of 2 feet (0.6 m) was to avoid the impression that an exact height of 29,000 feet was nothing more than a rounded estimate.

More recently, the mountain has been found to be 8,848 m (29,028 feet) high, although there is some variation in the measurements. The mountain K2 comes in second at 8,611 m (28,251 feet) high. On May 22, 2005, the People's Republic of China's Everest Expedition Team ascended to the top of the mountain. After several months' complicated measurement and calculation, on October 9, 2005, the PRC's State Bureau of Surveying and Mapping officially announced the height of Everest as 8,844.43 m ± 0.21 m (29,017.16 ± 0.69 ft). They claimed it was the most accurate measurement to date.[5]. But this new height is based on the actual highest point of rock and not on the snow and ice that sits on top of that rock on the summit, so, in keeping with the practice used on Mont Blanc and Khan Tangiri Shyngy, it is not shown here. The Chinese also measured a snow/ice depth of 3.5 m,[6] which implies agreement with a net elevation of 8,848 m. But in reality the snow and ice thickness varies, making a definitive height of the snow cap, and hence the precise height attained by summiteers without sophisticated GPS, impossible to determine.

The elevation of 8,848 m (29,028 ft) was first determined by an Indian survey in 1955, made closer to the mountain, also using theodolites. It was subsequently reaffirmed by a 1975 Chinese measurement [7]. In both cases the snow cap, not the rock head, was measured. In May 1999 an American Everest Expedition, directed by Bradford Washburn, anchored a GPS unit into the highest bedrock. A rock head elevation of 8,850 m (29,035 feet), and a snow/ice elevation 1 m (3 ft) higher, were obtained via this device[8]. Although it has not been officially recognized by Nepal [9], this figure is widely quoted. Geoid uncertainty casts doubt upon the accuracy claimed by both the 1999 and 2005 surveys.

It is thought that the plate tectonics of the area are adding to the height and moving the summit north-eastwards. Two accounts, [8], [10] suggest the rates of change are 4 mm per year (upwards) 3-6 mm per year (northeastwards), but another account mentions more lateral movement (27 mm)[11], and even shrinkage has been suggested [12].

Everest is the mountain whose summit attains the greatest distance above sea level. Two other mountains are sometimes claimed as alternative "tallest mountains on Earth". Mauna Kea in Hawaii is tallest when measured from its base; it rises over 10,203 m (about 6.3 mi) when measured from its base on the mid-ocean floor, but only attains 4,205 m (13,796 ft) above sea level. The summit of Chimborazo in Ecuador is 2,168 m (7,113 ft) farther from the Earth's centre (6,384.4 km or 3,967.1 mi) than that of Everest (6,382.3 km or 3,965.8 mi), because the Earth bulges at the Equator. However, Chimborazo attains a height of 6,267 m (20,561 ft) above sea level, and by this criterion it is not even the highest peak of the Andes.

The deepest spot in the ocean is deeper than Everest is high: the Challenger Deep, located in the Mariana Trench, is so deep that if Everest were to be placed into it there would be more than 2 km (1.25 mi) of water covering it.

The Mount Everest region, and the Himalayas in general, are thought to be experiencing ice-melt due to global warming.[13] The exceptionally heavy southwest summer monsoon of 2005 is consistent with continued warming and augmented convective uplift on the Tibetan plateau to the north.[citation needed]

Climbing routes

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Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station.

Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station.

Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as many other less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953 and the first recognised of fifteen routes to the top by 1996. This was, however, a route decision dictated more by politics than by design as the Chinese border was closed to foreigners in 1949. Reinhold Messner (Italy) summited the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, on August 20th 1980. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters. This route has been noted as the 8th climbing route to the summit.

Most attempts are made during April and May before the summer monsoon season. A change in the jet stream at this time of year reduces the average wind speeds high on the mountain. While attempts are sometimes made after the monsoons in September and October, the additional snow deposited by the monsoons and the less stable weather patterns makes climbing more difficult.

Southeast ridge

The ascent via the southeast ridge begins with a trek to Base Camp at 5,380 m (17,600 ft) on the south side of Everest in Nepal. Expeditions usually fly into Lukla (2,860 m) from Kathmandu and pass through Namche Bazaar. Climbers then hike to Base Camp, which usually takes six to eight days, allowing for proper altitude acclimatization in order to prevent altitude sickness. Climbing equipment and supplies are carried by yaks, dzopkyos (yak hybrids) and human porters to Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier. When Hillary and Tenzing climbed Everest in 1953, they started from Kathmandu Valley, as there were no roads further east at that time.

A view of Everest southeast ridge base camp. The Khumbu Icefall can be seen in the left. In the center are the remains of a helicopter that crashed in 2003.

A view of Everest southeast ridge base camp. The Khumbu Icefall can be seen in the left. In the center are the remains of a helicopter that crashed in 2003.

Climbers will spend a couple of weeks in Base Camp, acclimatizing to the altitude. During that time, Sherpas and some expedition climbers will set up ropes and ladders in the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. Seracs, crevasses and shifting blocks of ice make the icefall one of the most dangerous sections of the route. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. To reduce the hazard, climbers will usually begin their ascent well before dawn when the freezing temperatures glue ice blocks in place. Above the icefall is Camp I or Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,065 m (19,900 ft).

From Camp I, climbers make their way up the Western Cwm to the base of the Lhotse face, where Camp II is established at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). The Western Cwm is a relatively flat, gently rising glacial valley, marked by huge lateral crevasses in the centre which prevent direct access to the upper reaches of the Cwm. Climbers are forced to cross on the far right near the base of Nuptse to a small passageway known as the "Nuptse corner". The Western Cwm is also called the "Valley of Silence" as the topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. The high altitude and a clear, windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers.

From Camp II, climbers ascend the Lhotse face on fixed ropes up to Camp III, located on a small ledge at 7,470 m (24,500 ft). From there, it is another 500 metres to Camp IV on the South Col at 7,920 m (26,000 ft). From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers are faced with two additional challenges: The Geneva Spur and The Yellow Band. The Geneva Spur is an anvil shaped rib of black rock named by a 1952 Swiss expedition. Fixed ropes assist climbers in scrambling over this snow covered rock band. The Yellow Band is a section of sedimentary sandstone which also requires about 100 metres of rope for traversing it.

On the South Col, climbers enter the death zone. Climbers typically only have a maximum of two or three days they can endure at this altitude for making summit bids. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp.

From Camp IV, climbers will begin their summit push around midnight with hopes of reaching the summit (still another 1,000 metres above) within 10 to 12 hours. Climbers will first reach "The Balcony" at 8,400 m (27,700 ft), a small platform where they can rest and gaze at peaks to the south and east in the early dawn light. Continuing up the ridge, climbers are then faced with a series of imposing rock steps which usually forces them to the east into waist deep snow, a serious avalanche hazard. At 8,750 m (28,700 ft), a small table-sized dome of ice and snow marks the South Summit.

From the South Summit, climbers follow the knife-edge southeast ridge along what is known as the "Cornice traverse" where snow clings to intermittent rock. This is the most exposed section of the climb as a misstep to the left would send one 2,400 m (8,000 ft) down the southwest face while to the immediate right is the 3,050 m (10,000 ft) Kangshung face. At the end of this traverse is an imposing 12 m (40 ft) rock wall called the "Hillary Step" at 8,760 m (28,750 ft).

Hillary and Tenzing were the first climbers to ascend this step and they did it with primitive ice climbing equipment and without fixed ropes. Nowadays, climbers will ascend this step using fixed ropes previously set up by Sherpas. Once above the step, it is a comparatively easy climb to the top on moderately angled snow slopes - though the exposure on the ridge is extreme especially while traversing very large cornices of snow. After the Hillary Step, climbers also must traverse a very loose and rocky section that has a very large entanglement of fixed ropes that can be troublesome in bad weather. Climbers will typically spend less than a half-hour on "top of the world" as they realize the need to descend to Camp IV before darkness sets in, afternoon weather becomes a serious problem, or supplemental oxygen tanks run out.

Northeast ridge

Everest North Face

Everest North Face

The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up Base Camp at 5,180 m (17,000 ft) on a gravel plain just below the glacier. To reach Camp II, climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m (20,000 ft). Camp III (ABC - Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). To reach Camp IV on the north col, climbers ascend the glacier to the foot of the col where fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col, climbers ascend the rocky north ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route goes up the north face through a series of gullies and steepens into downsloping slabby terrain before reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From Camp VI, climbers will make their final summit push. Climbers must first make their way through three rock bands known as First Step: 27,890 feet - 28,00 feet, Second Step: 28,140 feet - 28,300 feet, and Third Step: 28,510 feet - 28,870 feet. Once above these steps, the final summit slopes (50 to 60 degrees) to the top.

Ascents

Mount Everest as seen from the Rongbuk Monastery.

Mount Everest as seen from the Rongbuk Monastery.

Main article: Timeline of climbing Mount Everest

Early expeditions

On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, both of the United Kingdom, made an attempt on the summit via the north col/north ridge route from which they never returned.

In 1999, the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory's body in the predicted search area near the old Chinese camp. Controversy has raged in the mountaineering community as to whether the duo may have summited 29 years before the confirmed ascent (and of course, safe descent) of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. The general consensus among climbers has been that they did not, though recent findings may indicate otherwise.

Mallory had gone on a speaking tour of the United States the year before in 1923; it was then that he exasperatedly gave the famous reply, "Because it is there," to a New York journalist in response to hearing the question, "Why climb Everest?" for seemingly the thousandth time. Comprehensive information is available at Mallory and Irvine: The Final Chapter including critical opposing viewpoints.

In 1933, Lady Houston, a British millionaire ex-showgirl, funded the Houston Everest Flight of 1933, which saw a formation of airplanes led by the Marquess of Clydesdale fly over the summit in an effort to deploy the British Union Jack flag at the top.

Early expeditions ascended the mountain from Tibet, via the north face. However, this access was closed to western expeditions in 1950, after the Chinese reasserted control over Tibet. However, in 1950, Bill Tilman and a small party which included Charles Houston, Oscar Houston and Betsy Cowles undertook an exploratory expedition to Everest through Nepal along the route which has now become the standard approach to Everest from the south.

First successful ascent by Tenzing and Hillary

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair (Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans) came within 300 feet of the summit on 26 May, but turned back after becoming exhausted. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its second climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 am local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. At the time, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition, but Tenzing revealed a few years later that Hillary had put his foot on the summit first. They paused at the summit to take photographs and buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending. News of the expedition's success reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation. Returning to Kathmandu a few days later, Hillary and Hunt discovered that they had been promptly knighted for their efforts.

1996 disaster

During the 1996 climbing season, fifteen people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest single year in Everest history. The disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialization of Everest.

Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was also in Hall's party, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide who felt impugned by Krakauer's book, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb. The dispute sparked a large debate within the climbing community. In May 2004, Kent Moore, a physicist, and John L. Semple, a surgeon, both researchers from the University of Toronto, told New Scientist magazine that an analysis of weather conditions on that day suggested that freak weather caused oxygen levels to plunge by